Biobased Textile Auxiliaries: How Sustainability Is Changing Standards in the Leather and Textile Industry

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The textile and leather industry is among the sectors with high consumption of chemicals – from dyes and softeners to surfactants and finishing agents. However, traditional synthetic auxiliaries face growing criticism due to environmental impacts, regulations such as REACH, and demand for sustainable materials. Biobased alternatives, which combine renewable raw materials with high efficiency, are becoming the solution. These products not only reduce dependence on fossil resources but often also demonstrate better biodegradability and lower toxicity. How is the market changing, and what does this mean for manufacturers?

Why the textile and leather industry is turning to biobased raw materials

The trend of switching to biobased textile auxiliaries is not just a matter of a fashionable ecological image, but primarily a response to growing regulatory pressure and market demand. The European Union, through the REACH regulation and the strategy for sustainable chemicals, is gradually restricting the use of hazardous substances such as certain synthetic surfactants, phthalates, or formaldehyde additives. Manufacturers of leather and textile materials are thus seeking alternatives that meet strict ecological standards without compromising processing quality.

Biobased raw materials, derived from renewable sources such as plant oils, sugars, or cellulose, offer several advantages. Their production has a lower carbon footprint compared to petroleum derivatives and often demonstrates better biodegradability. For example, surfactants based on coconut or palm oil achieve comparable efficiency in degreasing leather as their synthetic counterparts, but with a significantly lower environmental impact. A key factor is also the transparency of the supply chain – customers are increasingly demanding certified raw materials with documented origin.

Key categories of biobased auxiliaries and their applications

In the leather industry, fats and oils for lubricating and softening leather are among the most widely used biobased products. Traditionally used mineral oils are being replaced by plant-based alternatives such as castor or rapeseed oil, which also enhance the natural appearance and feel of the material. For impregnation and waterproofing, waxes based on beeswax or carnauba wax are used, providing comparable water resistance to synthetic polymer treatments.

In the textile industry, biobased surfactants and softeners dominate. For example, alkyl polyglucosides (APG), produced from glucose and fatty alcohols, are used as gentle detergents and wetting agents in textile pretreatment. For finishing processes, fatty acid ester-based softeners, which do not burden wastewater with toxic substances, are increasingly being adopted. Enzymes also play a significant role – such as proteases for removing protein impurities from wool or cellulases for biopolishing cotton fabrics, which replace aggressive chemical processes.

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Challenges and limitations of biobased solutions at industrial scale

Switching to biobased auxiliaries presents several technical and economic challenges. The main limitation is often the higher cost of raw materials, which can be up to 20–30% more expensive than conventional products. This is due to more demanding production processes, smaller production volumes, and fluctuating availability of renewable resources. Manufacturers must also address stability and quality consistency—natural raw materials are subject to seasonal variations and geographical differences, which can affect the final properties of the product.

Another challenge is compatibility with existing production lines. Some biobased products require different application conditions, such as lower temperatures or longer processing times. For example, enzymatic processes in the leather industry often require precise control of pH and temperature to avoid damaging the material. Manufacturers must therefore invest in testing and process optimization, which can slow down the implementation of new solutions. Nevertheless, long-term savings on energy and waste can offset these initial costs.

The Future of Biobased Textile Auxiliaries: Innovation and Certification

The future of biobased auxiliaries in the textile and leather industries will depend on innovation and standardization. Research is focusing on the development of hybrid products that combine the advantages of natural and synthetic components—for example, modified polysaccharides with improved properties for textile dyeing. Another direction involves biotechnological processes, such as the fermentation of sugars into specialty surfactants or biopolymers that can fully replace petroleum derivatives.

Certification systems also play a key role, helping customers identify truly sustainable products. Certifications such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OEKO-TEX® STeP define criteria for ecological and social sustainability throughout the entire production chain. For manufacturers of auxiliaries, it is important that their products meet these standards while also being compatible with industrial customers' requirements for performance and reproducibility. The trend is moving toward transparency—from the origin of raw materials to the final product—which requires close collaboration between suppliers, manufacturers, and end users.

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Optimising processes with biobased surfactants: Energy and water savings in practice

Biobased surfactants, derived from vegetable oils or sugars, represent a key element in reducing the environmental footprint of textile and leather processing. Their advantages include not only biodegradability but also the ability to effectively reduce surface tension at lower temperatures than synthetic alternatives. This enables washing, dyeing, or degreasing at temperatures around 40–50 °C instead of the traditional 70–90 °C, leading to energy savings of up to 30–40%. Additionally, they exhibit higher compatibility with hard water, reducing the consumption of softeners and thus the volume of wastewater.

In practice, biobased surfactants prove particularly effective in textile pretreatment, where they replace alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO), the use of which is restricted in the EU by the REACH regulation. For example, in the cotton desizing process, they achieve comparable efficiency at half the concentration of conventional products. An important factor is also their low toxicity to aquatic organisms, which facilitates compliance with wastewater discharge requirements under industrial emissions directives.

Polyols and plasticizers from renewable sources: Enhancing material properties without compromise

In the leather industry, biobased polyols and plasticizers play a crucial role in replacing petrochemical derivatives such as phthalates or mineral oils. These substances, often produced from castor oil, soy esters, or waste fats, provide leather materials with the desired softness, elasticity, and resistance to cracking. Unlike synthetic alternatives, they do not contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which improves workplace air quality and reduces harmful emissions.

In the textile industry, biobased polyols are primarily used in fabric finishing processes, where they enhance wrinkle resistance or improve hand feel. For example, when applied to cotton or linen fabrics, they can achieve comparable effectiveness to conventional products, while the biodegradability of these substances minimizes the risk of soil and water contamination. A challenge remains their stability at high temperatures, which is why they are often combined with natural waxes or starches to achieve optimal results.

Certification and Transparency: How to Verify the Sustainability of Biobased Auxiliary Agents

With growing interest in biobased products, demands for transparency regarding their origin and environmental impact are also increasing. Certifications such as EU Ecolabel, GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), or Cradle to Cradle provide customers with assurance that auxiliary agents meet strict sustainability criteria. These systems evaluate not only the proportion of renewable raw materials but also the energy intensity of production, CO₂ emissions, and compliance with social standards in the supply chain.

For manufacturers, it is crucial to verify whether suppliers of biobased raw materials possess valid certificates and documentation in accordance with REACH and CLP regulations. For instance, with surfactants, it is important to confirm their biodegradability using standard test methods and to demonstrate the absence of hazardous substances from the SVHC (Substances of Very High Concern) list. Transparent communication of this information helps textile and leather manufacturers not only meet legislative requirements but also strengthen end customers' trust in sustainable products.

Looking for Sustainable Solutions for Textile or Leather Production?

GCG Group offers a wide portfolio of biobased and eco-friendly auxiliary agents for the textile and leather industry. For each raw material, we provide detailed technical data sheets and safety data in accordance with current regulations, so you can safely and efficiently innovate your production processes. Contact us – or browse our catalog of over 1,300 products right away.