Introduction to Cosmetic Ingredients
The market for cosmetic ingredients in the EU is one of the most regulated and, at the same time, most innovative segments of the chemical industry. The European cosmetics and personal care market reaches an annual turnover of over €90 billion, with ingredients (emulsifiers, active ingredients, preservatives, surfactants, UV filters, dyes, and auxiliary substances) forming a key input for thousands of manufacturers — from multinational corporations to small indie brands and contract manufacturers (private label).
Cosmetic ingredients can be divided into several major categories by function in the formulation: emulsifiers and stabilizers (hold the emulsion together), active ingredients (declared effect — hydration, brightening, anti-wrinkle effect), preservatives (protection against microbial contamination), thickeners (viscosity and textural properties), UV filters (protection from sunlight), silicones and emollients (sensory feel, hydration), and dyes and pigments (decorative cosmetics).
Unlike industrial chemistry, cosmetic ingredients are subject to strict European legislation — primarily the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, which establishes lists of banned substances (Annex II), restricted substances (Annex III), permitted colorants (Annex IV), preservatives (Annex V), and UV filters (Annex VI). Every buyer and formulator must know not only the chemical and functional properties of an ingredient but also its legislative status.
Key Definition
A cosmetic ingredient is any substance or mixture intended to be mixed with other ingredients for the purpose of manufacturing a cosmetic product within the meaning of Art. 2 of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 — i.e., a product intended for contact with the external parts of the human body for the purpose of cleaning, perfuming, changing appearance, protecting, or keeping in good condition.
INCI Nomenclature — How to Read and Understand It
INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is an internationally recognized system for naming cosmetic ingredients, developed by the American Personal Care Products Council (formerly CTFA), and has been mandatory for labeling cosmetic products in the EU since 1998 (Directive 93/35/EEC, now Regulation 1223/2009, Art. 19).
The aim of INCI is to ensure that both consumers and regulators in any EU country (and beyond) can recognize what substance is contained in a product, regardless of the trade name given to it by the supplier. The INCI name is listed on the packaging in descending order of concentration (for ingredients below 1%, the order is arbitrary).
Structure of INCI Names
INCI names follow different rules depending on the type of substance:
Chemical Substances
Use a simplified chemical name, often in English — e.g., Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid.
Plant Extracts
The Latin botanical name of the plant is stated + the part used and type of processing — e.g., Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (aloe vera leaf juice), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea extract).
Derivatives & Salts
Hyaluronic acid is usually used as an ingredient in the form of its sodium salt — INCI Sodium Hyaluronate. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in stabilized form is, for example, Ascorbyl Glucoside.
Fragrances & Allergens
A fragrance composition is listed as Parfum (or Fragrance), but 26 (newly expanded to 80) defined allergens must be listed separately if they exceed the threshold concentration (0.001% for leave-on, 0.01% for rinse-off products).
Where to Verify an INCI Name — CosIng
The European Commission maintains the public CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredient Database), where you can verify the INCI name, CAS and EC number, cosmetic function, and any legislative restrictions under the annexes of Regulation 1223/2009 for each substance. The database is a key tool for formulators when verifying the compliance of new ingredients.
Practical Tip
When introducing a new ingredient, always verify its INCI name in CosIng and compare the CAS number with the supplier's technical data sheet — the trade name of an ingredient may vary from supplier to supplier, but the INCI and CAS must match.
Emulsifiers & Stabilizers
Emulsifiers are surface-active substances that allow two immiscible phases — usually water and oil — to be mixed into a stable emulsion. The choice of emulsifier is one of the most important decisions when formulating creams, lotions, and milks.
O/W vs. W/O Emulsions
O/W (oil in water) emulsions have the oil phase dispersed in a continuous water phase — they are lighter, spread more easily, and wash off with water. They require an emulsifier with a higher HLB (usually 8–16). W/O (water in oil) emulsions have the opposite structure — they are greasier, more water-resistant, and are used in protective creams and make-up. They require an emulsifier with a lower HLB (4–6).
| Emulsifier (INCI) | Emulsion Type | HLB | Typical Concentration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Emulgade SE (Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate) | O/W | ~11 | 3–6 % |
| Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) | O/W (přírodní, PEG-free) | ~9 | 3–8 % |
| Tego Care PBS 6 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) | O/W, jemný | ~9 | 2–5 % |
| Polysorbate 60 | O/W, solubilizace | 14,9 | 1–5 % |
| Polysorbate 80 | O/W, solubilizace olejů | 15,0 | 0,5–5 % |
| Cetearyl Alcohol + Ceteareth-20 | O/W, ko-emulgátor | ~15,2 (Ceteareth-20) | 2–8 % (celkem) |
| Sorbitan Stearate (Span 60) | W/O, ko-emulgátor | 4,7 | 1–4 % |
| Lecithin (Glycerin, Lecithin) | W/O i O/W, přírodní | ~4 (v surové formě) | 1–5 % |
Stabilizers & Co-emulsifiers
The emulsifier alone is often not enough for long-term emulsion stability. Formulators add co-emulsifiers (fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol) and viscosity stabilizers (xanthan gum, carbomer), which increase the viscosity of the water phase and prevent coalescence of oil droplets. Combining a primary emulsifier with an HLB matching the oil phase and a secondary co-emulsifier is standard formulation practice.
Practical Note on HLB
As with surfactants, the principle of required oil HLB also applies to cosmetic emulsifiers. Mineral oil requires HLB ~10–12, silicone oil (dimethicone) HLB ~10–11, natural vegetable oils typically HLB 6–8. Choose an emulsifier or blend of emulsifiers close to this value.
Active Ingredients for Skin Care
Active ingredients are substances that carry a declared cosmetic effect — hydration, skin brightening, anti-wrinkle effect, soothing irritation. Their selection and concentration must be based on clinical data and safety assessment.
Kyselina hyaluronová (Sodium Hyaluronate)
A highly hygroscopic molecule capable of binding up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. The low-molecular-weight fraction (< 50 kDa) penetrates deeper, the high-molecular-weight fraction (> 1,000 kDa) forms an occlusive film on the surface.
Niacinamid (Niacinamide, vitamín B3)
Regulates melanin production (reducing hyperpigmentation), strengthens the skin barrier function by increasing ceramide synthesis, regulates sebum. Very well tolerated, can be combined with most active ingredients.
Ascorbyl Glucoside (derivát vitamínu C)
A stable glycosylated derivative of ascorbic acid, hydrolyzed into active vitamin C in tissue. Antioxidant effect, inhibition of tyrosinase (lightening pigmentation), support for collagen synthesis.
Peptidy (např. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
Short amino acid chains that signal cells to produce collagen and elastin (signal peptides), or block neurotransmitter release similarly to botulinum toxin (neuropeptides). Used in anti-aging serums.
Retinol / Retinal (vitamín A a jeho aldehyd)
Retinoids bind to nuclear receptors (RAR/RXR) and regulate gene expression — they speed up cell turnover, stimulate collagen synthesis, and reduce wrinkles. Retinal is more effective and faster than retinol, but more irritating.
Panthenol (provitamín B5)
Converted into pantothenic acid in the skin. Increases hydration of the stratum corneum, promotes healing, and soothes irritation. Very well tolerated, suitable even for sensitive skin and baby cosmetics.
Allantoin
Keratolytic and soothing effects, promotes wound healing, reduces irritation. Often combined with panthenol in after-sun and repair products.
Preservatives — Legislation & Selection
Preservatives protect a cosmetic product from the growth of bacteria, yeasts, and molds throughout its entire shelf life — typically 12–36 months after opening (PAO). Without effective preservation, water-diluted cosmetic products would be an ideal environment for microbial growth.
| Preservative (INCI) | Max. Concentration (Annex V) | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Phenoxyethanol | 1,0 % | Broad spectrum, good stability, most widely used in the EU |
| Benzyl Alcohol | 1,0 % | Weaker against molds, often used in combination, also a fragrance ingredient |
| Sorbic Acid / Potassium Sorbate | 0,6 % (jako kyselina) | Effective against yeasts and molds, works only at pH < 6 |
| Sodium Benzoate | 0,5 % (jako kyselina) | Synergy with sorbate, works at low pH |
| Methylparaben / Ethylparaben | 0,4 % jednotlivě / 0,8 % součet | Permitted, but with reduced consumer popularity |
| Propylparaben / Butylparaben | 0,14 % součet | Restrictions for diaper area products for children under 3 |
| Benzoic Acid | 2,5 % | Works only at pH < 5, often combined with sorbate |
EU Annex V — Positive List
Unlike most ingredients, preservatives in the EU operate on the principle of a positive list — Annex V of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 exhaustively lists the substances permitted as preservatives and their maximum concentrations. Using an unapproved preservative, even if safe in other contexts, is illegal.
Challenge Test (Preservative Efficacy Test)
Before placing a product on the market, the preservative system must be verified by a so-called challenge test according to ISO 11930. The product is artificially inoculated with standardized strains of bacteria (e.g., Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli) and yeasts/molds (Candida albicans, Aspergillus brasiliensis), and the decline in colony counts is measured over time (days 0, 7, 14, 28). The test takes 28 days and is part of the CPSR documentation.
The Status of Parabens — Controversy and Facts
Despite media controversy, methyl- and ethylparaben remain legal and safe in the EU according to the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) assessment. Isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenylparaben, benzylparaben, and pentylparaben have been banned in the EU since 2014 due to a lack of safety data, not proven harm.
Thickeners & Rheology Modifiers
Thickeners adjust the viscosity and texture of a product, stabilize emulsions, and influence the sensory impression (spreadability, "slip," stickiness). The choice depends on the type of system (aqueous gel vs. emulsion), the required pH, and the feel on the skin.
Carbomer (Carbopol)
A cross-linked polyacrylate forming clear gels upon neutralization (typically with triethanolamine or NaOH). High clarity, excellent stability, sensitive to electrolytes and extreme pH. Used at 0.1–1%.
Xanthan Gum
A natural polysaccharide produced by fermentation (Xanthomonas campestris). Pseudoplastic behavior (viscosity decreases under shear), stable over a wide range of pH and temperatures. Used at 0.1–1%, popular in natural/organic cosmetics.
Hydroxyethylcelulóza (HEC)
A nonionic cellulose derivative soluble in both cold and warm water, forming clear viscous solutions. Suitable for clear gels and shampoos, compatible with electrolytes unlike carbomer. Used at 0.5–2%.
Hydroxypropylmethylcelulóza (HPMC)
Similar to HEC, but with thermal gelation upon heating — used in specific formulations requiring temperature-dependent viscosity. Typically 0.3–1.5%.
Akrylátové kopolymery (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)
Combine thickening and emulsifying functions (self-emulsifying thickener), more tolerant of electrolytes than classic carbomer. Used at 0.1–0.5%.
UV Filters
UV filters protect the skin from harmful UV radiation and are an essential component of sunscreens and many daily products. They are divided into organic (chemical) filters, which absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat, and mineral (physical) filters, which reflect and scatter radiation.
Organic (Chemical) Filters
Absorb UV photons and convert the energy into heat. Require good photostability and often a combination of multiple filters to cover the entire UVA/UVB spectrum.
Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)
UVA filter, max. 5%, unstable without a stabilizer (octocrylene)
Octocrylene
UVB filter, max. 10%, stabilizes avobenzone
Homosalate
UVB filter, max. 10%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate)
UVB filter, max. 10%
Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S)
Broad-spectrum UVA/UVB, max. 10%
Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M)
Broad-spectrum, hybrid organic-mineral particle, max. 10%
Mineral (Physical) Filters
Reflect and scatter UV radiation. Preferred for sensitive skin, baby cosmetics, and the "mineral sunscreen" trend. The nanoparticle form requires special labeling on the packaging ("nano").
Zinc Oxide
Broad-spectrum UVA/UVB, max. 25%, also in nano form
Titanium Dioxide
Primarily UVB, max. 25%, also in nano form
The list of approved UV filters and their maximum concentrations is set by Annex VI of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 — again a positive (closed) list. The declared SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is determined by an in vivo test according to ISO 24444 methodology; the UVA protection ratio (PPD method) must reach at least 1/3 of the declared SPF according to Commission recommendations.
Formulation Note
High SPF formulations (SPF 50+) usually combine 3–5 different UV filters (organic and mineral) to achieve photostability and even coverage of the 290–400 nm spectrum while maintaining acceptable sensory properties and without a white cast.
Silicones & Emollients
Emollients and silicones are responsible for the sensory impression of a product — softness, "slip" (glide during application), absorption speed, and the feel on the skin after application. The choice of emollient significantly affects consumer perception of product quality.
Silicones
Dimethicone is the most widely used silicone emollient — it provides a smooth, non-greasy feel, occlusive protection, and easy spreading. Cyclomethicone (cyclic silicone D5, cyclopentasiloxane) is characterized by rapid evaporation and a "dry" feel, but due to concerns about environmental bioaccumulation, it faces growing regulatory pressure in the EU (restrictions in rinse-off products under REACH). Formulators are therefore increasingly seeking silicone alternatives — such as esters as Caprylyl Methicone alternatives, or natural emollients with a similar sensory profile (Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate).
Vegetable Oils & Butters
Shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) is rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, provides intense hydration, and is popular in natural cosmetics. Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil) is technically a liquid wax with a structure very similar to human sebum, absorbs excellently, and is suitable even for oily skin.
Esters
Isopropyl Myristate is a light ester with excellent spreadability, used to improve penetration and reduce greasy feel. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil) is a highly stable, non-greasy, oxidation-resistant emollient, popular in natural cosmetics as a substitute for mineral oil.
Dyes & Pigments
Dyes are used in cosmetics both for decorative purposes (make-up, lipsticks, nail polish) and for the aesthetic adjustment of the color of the product itself (creams, shampoos). Unlike active ingredients, dyes are subject to a strict positive list — Annex IV of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, which specifies the permitted dye under a so-called CI number (Colour Index).
Each dye is assigned a CI number (e.g., CI 77891 = Titanium Dioxide as a white pigment, CI 15850 = Red 6/7, CI 19140 = Yellow 5), and Annex IV specifies for which types of applications (leave-on, rinse-off, mucous membrane contact) it is permitted and at what purity.
Mica-Based Pigments for Decorative Cosmetics
The natural mineral mica coated with metal oxides (iron oxide, titanium dioxide) creates pearlescent and shimmering effects used in eyeshadows, highlighters, and make-up. The INCI name typically states a combination of Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, 77492, 77499). The quality of a mica pigment depends on particle size and distribution (finer particles = matte effect, coarser = more pronounced shimmer) and on the ethical origin of mining (supply chain verification due to child labor risks in some mining areas).
Note on Nanomaterials
If a dye or UV filter is used in nano form (particles below 100 nm), this fact must be stated on the packaging as "[name] (nano)," and the substance must undergo a separate notification process with the European Commission before being placed on the market.
Legislation — Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009
The Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 is the fundamental legal act governing cosmetic products throughout the EU. It replaced the earlier Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC and is directly effective in all member states without the need for transposition.
Overview of the Regulation's Annexes
Příloha II — Zakázané látky
An exhaustive list of more than 1,600 substances completely banned in cosmetic products (e.g., CMR category 1A/1B/2 substances — carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic).
Příloha III — Omezené látky
Substances permitted only with restrictions on concentration, area of use, or with a mandatory warning on the packaging (e.g., salicylic acid, formaldehyde, hydrogen peroxide).
Příloha IV — Povolená barviva
A positive list of colorants with CI numbers and permitted areas of use (leave-on, rinse-off, mucous membranes).
Příloha V — Povolené konzervanty
A positive list of preservatives with maximum concentrations and any restrictions (e.g., for baby cosmetics).
Příloha VI — Povolené UV filtry
A positive list of organic and mineral UV filters with maximum concentrations.
Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR)
Before being placed on the market, every cosmetic product must have a prepared safety report (CPSR) — Part A (information on the product and exposure) and Part B (expert safety assessment prepared by a qualified toxicologist). The CPSR is part of the so-called Product Information File (PIF), which must be available to supervisory authorities on request for 10 years after the last batch is placed on the market.
The Responsible Person
The regulation requires the designation of a Responsible Person established in the EU, who is responsible for product compliance — usually the manufacturer, importer, or authorized representative. The Responsible Person must notify the product in the CPNP (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal) system before it is placed on the market, including information on the formula, presence of nanomaterials, and CLP classification.
Ban on Animal Testing
Since 2013, the EU has banned both the testing of finished cosmetic products and the testing of individual cosmetic ingredients on animals (marketing ban), even for ingredients tested outside the EU. The safety of ingredients is demonstrated using in vitro methods, read-across approaches, and existing toxicological data.
How to Choose a Supplier of Cosmetic Ingredients
1. Verify Quality Certificates
Require a Certificate of Analysis (CoA) for every delivered batch with actual measured values, not just a specification.
2. Check Manufacturing Standards
ISO 22716 (GMP for cosmetic ingredients/products) is the industry standard. Every serious supplier should have at least ISO 9001.
3. Request the Current SDS
The safety data sheet must be in the target market's language, updated according to the latest CLP classification.
4. Verify the Allergen Declaration for Fragrances
Fragrance compositions must include a declaration of allergen content according to IFRA (International Fragrance Association) standards and an IFRA compliance certificate.
5. For Natural Ingredients, Verify the Nagoya Protocol
Plant extracts and natural ingredients are subject to the Nagoya Protocol on Access to Genetic Resources (ABS — Access and Benefit Sharing). The supplier must document legal origin and compliance.
6. Check the Legislative Status in CosIng
Before introducing a new ingredient, verify its INCI, CAS, and status in the CosIng database — whether it falls under the restrictions of Annexes II, III, V, or VI.
7. Request Technical Support and Samples
A serious supplier will provide technical data sheets, recommended concentrations, compatibility with other ingredients, and samples for formulation testing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does INCI mean and what is it for?+
What is the difference between an O/W and W/O emulsifier?+
Are parabens still allowed in cosmetics?+
How long must a cosmetic product undergo a preservative efficacy (challenge) test?+
What is a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR)?+
How do I choose a reliable supplier of cosmetic ingredients?+
Looking for a Specific Cosmetic Ingredient?
GCG Group supplies a wide range of cosmetic ingredients — emulsifiers, active ingredients, preservatives, UV filters, and dyes. Complete documentation, samples on request, technical support for formulators.