Ecodesign in Cosmetics: Sustainable Product

Photo: ק. פ. / Unsplash

The environmental footprint of cosmetic products is becoming a key factor not only for consumers but also for manufacturers and distributors of raw materials. Customers demand products that are gentle on the skin and the environment, while legislation is gradually restricting the use of controversial substances. But how can a cosmetic product be designed to meet requirements for efficacy, stability, and safety while minimizing its impact on the planet? From raw material selection to production process optimization and packaging solutions—ecodesign in cosmetics requires a comprehensive approach. In this article, we will focus on specific steps manufacturers can take to make their products more sustainable without compromising quality.

Ecodesign in Cosmetics: What Does It Actually Mean?

Ecodesign in the cosmetics industry represents an approach that emphasizes minimizing the negative environmental impacts of products throughout their entire life cycle – from raw material sourcing, through production and distribution, to use and packaging disposal. It is not just about replacing one ingredient with a "greener" alternative, but about comprehensive optimization of formulations, processes, and logistics. The goal is to reduce energy consumption, water use, greenhouse gas emissions, and waste volume without compromising the product's functionality, safety, or stability.

In practice, this means selecting raw materials with a lower ecological footprint, such as plant-based oils instead of mineral oils, or biodegradable surfactants instead of persistent synthetic variants. Production efficiency is also important – for example, reducing the temperature during emulsion mixing from 80 °C to 60 °C can save up to 30 % of energy. Ecodesign also extends to packaging, where recyclable materials, minimalist design, or returnable packaging systems are preferred. A key tool is life cycle assessment (LCA), which helps identify critical points and prioritize measures.

Biodegradability and Gentle Surfactants: How to Replace Problematic Ingredients?

Surfactants are among the most debated ingredients in cosmetic and cleaning products in terms of environmental impact. Traditional anionic surfactants, such as alkylbenzene sulfonates (LAS) or alkyl sulfates (SLS/SLES), are effective and inexpensive, but their biodegradability is limited, and they can burden aquatic ecosystems. Modern ecodesign therefore seeks alternatives with a better ecological profile, such as sugar-based (alkyl polyglucosides), amino acid-based (glutamates, glycinates), or plant oil-based (coconut, palm kernel derivatives) options.

When selecting gentle surfactants, it is crucial to assess not only their biodegradability but also their toxicity to aquatic organisms and their potential for environmental accumulation. For example, alkyl polyglucosides degrade into water and carbon dioxide within a few days and exhibit low toxicity. It is also important to consider the overall concentration of surfactants in the product—optimizing the formulation can often achieve the same cleaning effect with a lower content of active substances. For manufacturers, it is advantageous to combine multiple types of surfactants so they complement each other and reduce overall consumption.

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Polyols and emollients: Plant-based alternatives to synthetic raw materials

Polyols and emollients are essential for hydration and texture in cosmetic products, but many synthetic variants (e.g., mineral oils, silicones) have a high environmental footprint. Ecodesign therefore prefers plant-based alternatives, such as triglycerides from coconut, sunflower, or rapeseed oil, which are renewable and readily biodegradable. Another option is sugar-based polyols, for example, sorbitol or glycerol from plant sources, which also often demonstrate better skin compatibility.

When switching to plant-based raw materials, it is important to ensure product stability and microbial purity. Plant oils are more prone to oxidation than mineral oils, so it is necessary to add antioxidants (e.g., tocopherol) or adjust storage conditions. Transparency in the supply chain is also crucial—certifications such as RSPO (for palm oil) or COSMOS ensure that raw materials come from sustainable sources. An advantage of plant-based emollients is often their multifunctionality, as they can serve simultaneously as a softening ingredient, solvent, or preservative booster.

Certifications and Regulations: How to Demonstrate the Environmental Friendliness of a Product?

For cosmetic manufacturers, it is crucial not only to formulate environmentally friendly products but also to communicate their properties transparently and reliably. Certifications from independent organizations, such as COSMOS, Ecocert, or NaTrue, provide customers with a guarantee that the product meets strict criteria regarding biodegradability, renewable raw materials, and the absence of problematic substances. These certifications, for example, require that at least 95% of ingredients be of natural origin and that a minimum of 20% come from organic farming.

In addition to voluntary certifications, it is also necessary to comply with legal requirements, particularly the REACH and CLP/GHS regulations, which govern the safety of chemical substances and their labelling. Ecodesign must also respect restrictions on certain ingredients, such as microplastics (banned in the EU since 2020) or some preservatives (e.g., parabens). Another important tool is environmental labelling, such as the EU Ecolabel, which assesses the overall environmental impact of a product. For manufacturers, it is advantageous to combine certifications with their own internal standards, such as reducing CO₂ emissions in production or using recycled packaging.

Photo: Egor Myznik / Unsplash

Packaging optimisation: Waste minimisation and material selection

Ecodesign in cosmetics is not limited to the product composition alone but also encompasses its packaging strategy. Manufacturers are increasingly focusing on reducing packaging volume, using recycled materials, and designing reusable or compostable solutions. For example, plastic bottles made from recycled PET (rPET) can reduce the carbon footprint by up to 75% compared to new plastic, without compromising the product's functionality or safety. It is also important to eliminate unnecessary components, such as inner seals or multiple packaging layers, which complicate recycling.

When selecting materials, it is crucial to consider their life cycle – from raw material extraction through production to disposal. While glass is fully recyclable, its high weight increases transport emissions. Conversely, aluminium packaging is lightweight and highly recyclable, but its production is energy-intensive. Innovative alternatives, such as bioplastic packaging based on starch or cellulose, offer a compromise if certified as compostable according to applicable standards. For manufacturers, it is essential to collaborate with suppliers who provide transparent information about the origin and environmental impact of their materials.

Water and Energy Savings in the Manufacturing Process

The production of cosmetic products is often associated with high water and energy consumption, which significantly contributes to the ecological footprint. Ecodesign therefore includes optimising manufacturing processes to minimise these demands. For example, cooling reactors with closed-loop water recirculation systems can reduce water consumption by up to 90% compared to traditional methods. Similarly, the use of renewable energy sources, such as solar or wind power, can significantly reduce CO₂ emissions associated with production.

Another key step is optimizing mixing and homogenization processes, which often require high temperatures and long processing times. Modern technologies, such as ultrasonic or microwave homogenizers, make it possible to achieve the desired product quality with lower energy consumption. Manufacturers should also consider local sources of raw materials to reduce emissions associated with transportation. Implementing these measures not only conserves resources but often leads to cost savings, which benefits both the environment and business.

Ecological Stability and Shelf Life: How to Extend Product Lifespan Without Harmful Preservatives

The shelf life of cosmetic products is crucial for their safety and efficacy, but traditional preservative systems often contain substances that can burden the environment or trigger allergic reactions. Ecodesign therefore seeks alternatives that extend product lifespan without negative impact. One option is natural preservatives, such as rosemary extracts, grapefruit seed extracts, or benzoic acid in low concentrations, which effectively inhibit microbial growth while meeting biodegradability requirements.

Another strategy is optimizing the product’s pH, which can significantly affect its stability. For example, an acidic environment (pH 4–5) slows bacterial and mold growth, reducing the need for preservatives. Manufacturers should also consider innovative packaging solutions, such as airtight pumps or single-dose packaging, which minimize product exposure to air and microorganisms. It is important to test product stability using standard testing methods to ensure safety throughout its shelf life without resorting to aggressive chemicals.

Need help selecting eco-friendly raw materials?

Every raw material in the GCG Group portfolio is supplied with detailed technical documentation and safety data sheets to help you assess its suitability for eco-friendly formulations. Our experts will be happy to advise you on selecting alternatives and optimizing formulations for your specific needs. Contact us – or browse our catalog of over 1,300 products right away.