How to Develop an Effective Micellar Cleansing Gel: A Step-by-Step Practical Guide

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Micellar cleansing gels have become an indispensable part of skincare thanks to their ability to gently remove impurities, makeup, and excess sebum without aggressive rubbing or drying. Their effectiveness lies in the combination of surfactants, hydrating ingredients, and a mild pH that respects the skin barrier. Developing a high-quality micellar gel, however, requires precise selection of raw materials, correct dosing, and thorough testing. In this article, we will guide you step-by-step through the process, from the basic recipe to the final product that meets requirements for safety, stability, and user comfort.

1. Defining Requirements and Selecting Suitable Raw Materials

The development of a micellar cleansing gel begins with a clear definition of the requirements for the final product. Consider the target group (e.g., sensitive skin, oily skin, baby care) and desired properties such as pH, viscosity, cleansing efficacy, or dermatological testing. Micellar gels typically work with a pH range of 5.0–6.5 to respect the skin's natural protective barrier. For sensitive skin, opt for lower surfactant concentrations (3–8%) and combine them with mild non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants to minimize irritation.

The foundation of a micellar gel lies in micelles – spherical structures formed by surfactants that bind dirt and excess sebum. Mild surfactants such as cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl glucoside, or PEG-80 sorbitan laurate are ideal for their formation. To increase viscosity and gel stability, add thickeners (e.g., carbomers, xanthan gum) at a concentration of 0.1–1%. Do not forget hydrating ingredients (glycerin, panthenol) and preservatives approved under REACH and CLP regulations to ensure microbiological stability of the product for at least 12 months.

2. Laboratory Sample Preparation: Mixing and Homogenization

When preparing a sample in the laboratory, adhere to precise dosing and gradual mixing of components. Start by dissolving thickeners in the aqueous phase (demineralized water, hydrating agents) under constant stirring at a temperature of 40–50 °C until a homogeneous consistency is achieved. Add surfactants gradually to avoid excessive foaming or clumping. For micellar gels, the balance between hydrophilic and lipophilic components is key – the ideal surfactant-to-water ratio ranges between 5:95 and 15:85, depending on the desired cleansing strength.

After mixing all the ingredients, leave the sample to rest for 24 hours at room temperature. This step allows for the stabilization of micellar structures and viscosity equalization. Then perform basic tests: pH measurement (using a precise pH meter), viscosity determination (using a rotational viscometer), and visual inspection of transparency and homogeneity. If the gel shows cloudiness or separation, adjust the surfactant ratio or add stabilizers such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

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3. Testing efficacy and safety

Verify the efficacy of the micellar gel using standard test methods. Cleaning performance should be tested on artificially soiled skin samples (e.g., a mixture of sebum, makeup, and dust) – the gel should remove at least 90 % of impurities without the need for rubbing. For sensitive skin, it is important to test for irritation using in vitro methods (e.g., tests on reconstructed human epidermis) or dermatological tests on volunteers. Comply with CLP and GHS regulations, particularly when labelling potential allergens.

Verify microbiological stability using a challenge test in accordance with applicable standards, which simulates product contamination by bacteria and moulds. Preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, or paraben mixtures must ensure that the product remains sterile even after repeated opening. Additionally, conduct stability tests at various temperatures (5 °C, 25 °C, 40 °C) for 3 months to verify that no separation, colour change, or odour occurs.

4. Formulation Optimisation and Preparation for Production

Adjust the formulation based on test results to achieve optimal properties. If the gel is too thin, increase the concentration of thickeners or add electrolytes (e.g., sodium chloride) in amounts of 0.1–0.5 %. Conversely, if the gel is too thick, dilute it with water or reduce the proportion of thickeners. To improve user comfort, you may add fragrance (0.1–0.3 %) or fine abrasive particles (e.g., jojoba wax beads) for an exfoliating effect.

Before starting production, prepare a technological process and product specification that includes the exact quantity of each raw material, the order of addition, temperature regimes, and mixing time. Ensure that all raw materials comply with REACH regulations and are approved for cosmetic use. For industrial production, consider using homogenizers and temperature-controlled reactors to ensure consistent batch quality. Do not forget the final inspection of each batch, including tests for pH, viscosity, and microbiological purity.

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5. Stability and microbiological safety: Key tests before market launch

The stability of a micellar cleansing gel is crucial for its shelf life and safety. At this stage, accelerated stability tests must be performed to simulate long-term storage under various conditions. Typically, samples are exposed to temperatures of 4 °C, 25 °C, and 40 °C for at least 4 weeks, while monitoring changes in appearance, pH, viscosity, and efficacy. It is also important to verify stability under cyclic temperature changes (e.g., 24 hours at 4 °C, followed by 24 hours at 40 °C), which can reveal potential phase separation or precipitation of active ingredients.

Microbiological safety is another critical aspect, especially for products without preservatives or with a low content of preservatives. According to the requirements of the REACH and CLP regulations, the gel must be tested for the presence of pathogenic microorganisms such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Candida albicans. Testing is performed using standard microbiological methods, and the results must comply with the limits set for cosmetic products. For micellar gels with a pH close to neutral, the risk of contamination is higher, so it is advisable to consider adding broad-spectrum preservatives or multifunctional additives with antimicrobial effects.

6. Regulatory Requirements and Documentation: What Must Not Be Missing from Your File

Before placing a micellar cleansing gel on the market, it is essential to ensure compliance with applicable legislation, particularly the EU Regulation on cosmetic products (EC) No 1223/2009. Each product must have complete documentation, including a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR), which contains a safety assessment by a qualified toxicologist. Additionally, a technical file must be prepared, detailing the formulation, manufacturing process, analytical methods, and results of stability and microbiological safety tests.

An important part of the documentation is also the product labelling according to the CLP/GHS regulation. The micellar gel must be correctly classified and labelled, including mandatory hazard symbols, signal words, and standardised hazard statements (H-phrases) and safety instructions (P-phrases). If the product contains substances subject to restrictions under Annex II or III of the regulation, compliance must be ensured. To facilitate the process, it is advisable to collaborate with a certified laboratory or a consultant specialising in cosmetic regulation.

7. Industrial Production and Scaling: From Laboratory Sample to Mass Production

Transitioning from laboratory preparation to industrial production requires careful planning and optimisation of process parameters. A key step is testing the formulation at pilot scale, where the behaviour of raw materials during larger-volume mixing and homogenisation is verified. For example, the viscosity of micellar gel can vary significantly depending on the type of mixer, rotation speed, and mixing time. To achieve consistent quality, it is advisable to use static or dynamic homogenisers with precisely defined parameters.

Another important aspect is temperature control during production. Some surfactants or active ingredients may be sensitive to temperature fluctuations, which can affect their efficacy or stability. In industrial-scale production, it is therefore necessary to ensure uniform cooling or heating of the mixture, ideally using reactors with double walls and automated temperature control. After production is completed, the product is filtered and filled into packaging under aseptic conditions to minimise the risk of microbial contamination. Final quality control includes verification of pH, viscosity, appearance, and microbiological purity for each batch.

Need Help with Formulation?

Every cosmetic raw material from GCG Group is supplied with complete safety documentation and technical data sheets. Our experts will be happy to advise you on the selection of surfactants, stabilizers, or preservative systems for your specific application. Contact us – or browse our catalog of over 1,300 products right away.