Microplastics in Cosmetics and Home Care: How to Replace Them with Sustainable Alternatives

Photo: Poko Skincare / Unsplash

Microplastics, tiny plastic particles smaller than 5 mm, have long been used in cosmetic and cleaning products for their exfoliating, thickening, or stabilizing properties. However, their negative impact on the environment, particularly on aquatic ecosystems, has led to increasing pressure to ban or replace them. Manufacturers are now seeking sustainable alternatives that maintain product functionality while meeting ecological requirements and consumer expectations. What options are available, and what should you watch out for when reformulating recipes?

What are microplastics and why are they a problem

Microplastics are synthetic polymeric particles smaller than 5 millimetres, used in cosmetics and household care products as abrasives, strengthening ingredients, fillers, or stabilisers. They typically consist of polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), or polyacrylate copolymers. Their main advantage is low cost, chemical stability, and the ability to modify product texture – from exfoliants to toothpaste. The problem, however, lies in their persistence: microplastics do not degrade, accumulate in the environment, and enter the food chain, where they can absorb toxic substances and threaten ecosystems and human health.

In the EU, microplastics in cosmetics are gradually regulated by the REACH regulation, which has prohibited their intentional addition to rinse-off products (e.g., shower gels, shampoos) since 2023. However, the ban does not apply to all categories – for example, decorative cosmetics or products containing microplastics in solid form (e.g., certain make-up items) are currently subject to less stringent rules. For manufacturers and consumers, it is therefore crucial to seek alternatives that maintain product functionality while eliminating ecological risks.

Natural Abrasives: How to Replace Microplastics in Exfoliants and Oral Care

In products designed for mechanical cleaning, such as exfoliants or toothpaste, microplastics can be easily replaced with natural abrasives. The most common alternatives include ground nut shells (e.g., walnut or hazelnut), bamboo powder, crushed rice husks, or apricot seeds. These materials provide a comparable cleaning effect but, unlike plastics, fully decompose in nature. It is important to select particles of the correct size and hardness – particles that are too coarse may irritate the skin or damage tooth enamel, while those that are too fine do not fulfil their function.

For sensitive skin or children's products, gentler alternatives such as jojoba wax powder or cellulose have proven effective. In toothpastes, hydrated silica (silica) is frequently used, as it is biodegradable and effectively removes plaque. When selecting alternatives, it is important to ensure that the raw materials come from sustainable sources and are not contaminated with pesticides or heavy metals—ideally, they should have organic farming certification or corresponding industry standards.

Photo: Elsa Olofsson / Unsplash

Biodegradable polymers and plant-based alternatives for textural modifiers

Microplastics are often added to cosmetics as strengthening or thickening agents that improve product consistency and stability. Replacing these synthetic polymers requires an innovative approach, as alternatives must meet similar technical parameters – such as resistance to temperature fluctuations, compatibility with other ingredients, or the ability to form a gel structure. Solutions may include biodegradable polymers like alginate (from seaweed), carrageenan, xanthan gum, or pectin, which occur naturally in plants and are fully compostable.

For products requiring higher viscosity or film-forming properties (e.g., hair masks, creams), plant waxes (jojoba, candelilla) or cellulose derivatives (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose) have proven effective. These substances not only replace the function of microplastics but often provide additional benefits – such as hydration or antioxidant effects. The challenge remains in optimizing formulations, as natural polymers may be more sensitive to pH or microbial contamination, requiring careful testing of product stability and preservation.

Practical steps for manufacturers: How to transition to sustainable alternatives

Transitioning to plastic-free formulations requires a systematic approach, starting with an analysis of existing products and the identification of ingredients containing microplastics. Manufacturers should collaborate with raw material suppliers who offer certified alternatives with verified ecological and technical properties. It is also important to consider costs – while some natural raw materials may be more expensive, the investment pays off in the long term due to growing demand for sustainable products and the opportunity to use ecological certifications (e.g., COSMOS, Ecocert) as a marketing tool.

Testing new formulations should include not only functional properties (e.g., texture, stability) but also consumer and environmental safety. Standard test methods verify, for example, the rate of biodegradation, toxicity to aquatic organisms, or potential for accumulation in soil. Communication with customers is another key step – transparent information about composition and ecological benefits helps build trust and differentiate from competitors. Ultimately, replacing microplastics is not just a matter of regulation but also an opportunity to innovate and contribute to a more sustainable future for the chemical industry.

Photo: Mariia Shalabaieva / Unsplash

Microplastic-free emulsifiers and surfactants: A gentle solution for stable formulations

Microplastics are often used as emulsifiers or stabilizers in cosmetic and cleaning formulations, where they ensure the uniform dispersion of oil and water phases. However, replacing them is not technically challenging – there are numerous plant-based and synthetic, yet biodegradable alternatives available. For example, lecithin (derived from soy or sunflower) is a proven natural emulsifier that also strengthens the skin's lipid barrier. For more demanding applications, such as micellar waters or shampoos, alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), derivatives of sugars and fatty alcohols, are well-established; they are fully biodegradable and environmentally friendly.

Another option is biosurfactants, such as rhamnolipids or sophorolipids, produced by microorganisms. These substances not only replace synthetic polymers but often demonstrate better cleaning efficiency at lower concentrations. An additional advantage is their compatibility with other natural ingredients, enabling the creation of complex formulations without compromising quality. When selecting alternatives, it is crucial to verify their stability across different pH and temperature conditions to prevent separation or loss of functionality during storage.

Film-Forming Agents and Conditioners: How to Achieve the Effect Without Synthetic Polymers

Hair conditioners, styling products, or creams often contain synthetic polymers that form a protective film on the surface of the skin or hair. These substances, such as acrylates or polyquaterniums, however, are frequently classified as microplastics. They can be replaced with plant-based polysaccharides, such as guar gum, xanthan, or cellulose, which provide a comparable conditioning effect. These natural polymers also improve the rheology of products and enhance their stability.

For more intensive care, proteins such as hydrolyzed keratin or wheat proteins can be used, which penetrate the hair fiber and restore its structure. For styling products, plant-based waxes and resins, such as carnauba or candelilla wax, have proven effective, providing a strong hold without the need for synthetic polymers. It is important to test the compatibility of these alternatives with other formulation ingredients to avoid undesirable interactions or deterioration of application properties.

Certification and Communication: How to Transparently Inform Customers About Sustainable Alternatives

Transitioning to microplastic-free formulations offers manufacturers an opportunity to strengthen their ecological image, but it requires clear and transparent communication. Customers, especially in the B2B segment, expect proof of sustainability, so it is advisable to use certifications such as COSMOS, Ecocert, or Vegan Society, which confirm compliance with strict ecological and ethical standards. These certificates not only enhance credibility but also make it easier for buyers to navigate the range when searching for eco-friendly alternatives.

Customer education is also important—through technical data sheets, webinars, or training sessions, where the benefits of new formulations and their environmental impact can be explained. Special attention should be paid to product labeling: according to CLP and GHS regulations, the composition must be clearly declared, including the absence of microplastics. It is also beneficial to highlight additional ecological benefits, such as reducing the carbon footprint or using recyclable packaging, which can be a decisive factor for customers when choosing a supplier.

Need Help with Reformulation?

GCG Group offers a broad portfolio of environmentally friendly raw materials that can replace microplastics in your products. For each raw material, we provide detailed technical data sheets and safety documentation (SDS), and we are happy to advise you on selecting the optimal solution for your application. Contact us – or browse our catalog of over 1,300 products right away.